Tag Archives: fall

THE MUMS ARE COMING! THE MUMS ARE COMING!

Versatile Mums

When fall arrives, it’s hard not to regret the passing of all the summer blooms we love so much. But take heart, because the fall garden offers all the summer flower shapes from just one plant, the chrysanthemum (otherwise known as mums).

Hundreds of types provide a huge variety of colors and bloom shapes, making mums the ‘divas’ of the autumn garden. The blooms last for weeks, not days, and the sheer number of flowers per plant will convince anyone that this flower really likes to show off. This plant pulls its weight in the garden.

Because of their tight, mounded habit and stunning bloom cover, garden mums are perfect for mass plantings. To get the maximum effect from far away, stick to only one or two colors. Another possibility is to arrange a gradual transition of related colors. Look around your yard to see what colors would best complement the existing landscape.

If you decorate for fall with pumpkins and gourds, choose orange, bronze, yellow, and creamy white mums. If you have a lot of evergreen plants that provide a backdrop of varying shades of green foliage, try bright pinks, lavenders, pure whites, or reds. With such bold colors, a large grouping of mums can excite even the most drab of fall landscapes.

Mums in Containers

Garden mums also make great container plants. They’re just right for popping into a clay pot, lining up in a row in a window box, or placing in the center of a mixed container with trailing foliage plants all around. Many landscape plants can provide a backdrop for groupings of mums. For texture, choose ornamental grasses or the neon purple berries of the beautyberry shrub (Callicarpa). You also can pair mums with variegated sedum, or almost any conifer.

Annual or Perennial?

Mums aren’t as expensive as many perennials, so if you choose to, you can plant them as annuals without worrying that you’ve spent too much money on something that might not live more than one season. If you’re an impulse buyer, you’ll probably see pots of colorful mums this fall and not be able to resist. If you plant them in the ground they may or may not make it through the winter to bloom the next fall. The earlier they are planted the better chance the roots have of surviving the winter.

Hardy vs. Florist Mums

Florist (or cutting) mums and hardy (or garden) mums come from the same original parent — a golden-yellow daisylike mum from China. Today’s hybrids in both categories are the results of endless crosses between several species from China and Japan.

Florist mums (also known as pot mums) are large-flower plants with many possible bloom forms, from quilled to pompom to spider and more.

Grown in greenhouses and used only as indoor plants, pot mum’s are normally only temporary guests in our homes, the duration of their stay usually mirrors how long they are in bloom, which in ideal conditions is around 6 – 8 weeks. Thus, this pot plant is used for splashes of color to brighten up a dull spot or a thoughtful birthday present for a work colleague. After the flowering period is over the plant is normally discarded, because trying to get them to re-bloom indoors is often more hassle than it’s worth, they’re also cheap to buy and therefore simple to replace.

Florist mums planted outside are most likely being used as short-term bedding plants that will be removed when the blooms are spent. You can plant a potted florist mum you receive as a gift, and it may grow for the summer, but it will not survive the winter, no matter how much protection you give it. Garden mums, on the other hand, produce underground stolens and can survive cold better. Most garden mums are perennials in Zones 5 to 9 and much tougher than florist types. Some cultivars are less hardy than others and can be killed by an early spring frost.

Whether you’re looking for a quick splash of color or a fixture for your border, mums are the pick for a fabulous fall.

Growing Mums

When it comes time to plant, consider these factors:

Location. Choose a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Plants that don’t get enough sunlight will be tall and leggy and produce fewer, smaller flowers.

Soil preparation. Mums thrive in well-drained soil. Heavy clay soil should be amended. If the soil is too dense, add compost and prepare to a depth of 8-12 inches for best performance. Mums’ roots are shallow, and they don’t like competition. Plant mums about 1 inch deeper than they were in the nursery pot, being careful with the roots as you spread them.

Trim off the previous year’s stems as soon as the new spring growth begins to show.

Watering. Water newly planted mums thoroughly, and never let them wilt. After they are established, give mums about an inch of water per week. When bottom leaves look limp or start to turn brown, water more often. Avoid soaking the foliage, which encourages disease.

Fertilizer. Plants set out in spring should get a 5-10-10 fertilizer once or twice a month until cooler weather sets in. Don’t fertilize plants set out in fall as annuals, but plants you hope to overwinter should get high-phosphorus fertilizer to stimulate root growth.

Overwintering. Prepare mums for winter after the first hard frost. Mulch up to 4 inches with straw or shredded mulch. Fill in around the entire plant, spreading well between branches. Pinch off dead blooms to clean up the plant, but leave branches intact. These plants have a better chance of surviving if you wait to prune old stems until spring. As soon as the weather warms, pull away mulch to allow new shoots to pop up.

Dividing. Mums grown as perennials need to be divided every couple of years. Divide in the spring after the last hard frost and after you see new growth starting. Dig up the plant in one piece and separate outer pieces from the center with a clean sharp spade or large knife. Replant the outer portions into a rejuvenated bed, and discard the original center of the plant.

Pinching Plants for Better Bloom

The key to those full, rounded domes of blooms that you associate with plants you buy is pinching to create more branching and keep plants compact. Don’t hold back — just a few minutes here and there will reward you with a thick, solid-looking plant.

If you’ve bought large, full plants in the fall, they have already been pinched and are ready for planting. Young spring plants will need pinching for maximum bloom and best plant shape.

Start pinching as soon as you see a good flush of buds. Pinch about half of the tender new growth at the top of the shoot; choose some stems with buds and some without. Repeat the process with every 3 to 5 inches of growth (about every two to four weeks) until July 4. Stopping then ensures you will get good bud formation and blooms in fall.

Plant Garlic Now for Flavor Next Summer

Garlic adds spice to the garden and
potent flavor for your summer meals.

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Fall (after the first frost) is the perfect time to plant garlic for your summer harvest. A sunny, well-drained garden amended with compost provides ideal growing conditions.  Water until the weather stops you, then start again after the snow melts in the spring. Come in to Giordano’s for all your compost and topsoil needs.

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Wild Garlic or Wild Onion?

Which one do you have in your lawn or garden?

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Wild Garlic                                         Wild Onion

Both are perennial, spread by seed, bulb, and bulblet. Wild garlic has 2–4 long narrow leaves that are round and hollow. The bulb has a yellowish-brown outer membrane with vertical fibers including several bulblets. Wild onion has more than 2 leaves, long and narrow but are flat, solid and slightly convex. The bulbs are brown with a pattern. There are 1–3 bulblets and the cut surface of the bulb will turn red when exposed to air.

The control is the same for both. For small patches pull or dig it out making sure you get all the bulbs and throw away in the trash. The bulbs can survive for several years so DO NOT COMPOST!

In the lawn you can slow the spread of both of these weeds by mowing regularly. It will help weaken the plant and decrease it’s seed production.

A post emergent herbicide can be applied when the weeds are actively growing in the fall, winter and spring. Treat plants when the greens are between 2 and 8 inches tall. In the garden make sure you protect nearby desirable plants when using an herbicide.

Mulching up to a depth of 4 inches has shown some success but that can create other problems in your garden.

Giordano’s can help you select the right Bonide treatment for your problem area!

 

 

Got Leaves? Make Compost!

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  • Composting is a way of enriching your garden at little or no cost.
  • What to Compost: food scraps, no meat or dairy. Leaves and yard waste no large branches or sticks.
  • Add Ringer Compost Plus All Purpose Compost Maker.
  • For faster results turn your compost every two weeks to aerate your pile and keep in direct sun
  • When finished it should look, feel and smell like rich, dark soil. You should not be able to recognize any of the items you put in there.
  • Apply finished compost to your garden 2-4 weeks before you plant.

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How to properly store your Dahlias over winter…

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  • The Dahlia root should be dug up immediately after the frost has killed the foliage.
  • When digging, lift the tubers carefully from the ground so they do not break.
  • Carefully pull the soil away from the roots.
  • Allow the tubers to dry out in a garage or dry basement for a few days.
  • Then cut back the stems to about 4 inches
  • Place them in boxes
  • You can use peat moss or vermiculite as a storing medium for air circulation and separation.
  • Check tubers monthly to make sure there is no mold or rot (discard any infected tubers to prevent spread of disease)
  • If the roots look like they are shriveling you may need to add a little moisture (use a spray bottle)
  • Storing temperature should be between 40-50 degrees F.

It’s time to fertilize your trees, shrubs & perennials

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Late fall is the time to fertilize your trees, scrubs and perennials. When the ground becomes cold your plants will turn dormant. The cold temperatures will allow the nutrients to be held in the soil all winter. They will work their way down deep into the root systems of your plants. As the weather begins to warm in the spring your plants will become active and they will begin to absorb the fertilizer.

We can help you pick out a well balanced organic fertilizer best-suited for your garden!

Eating pumpkins has health benefits!

They are loaded with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties which help prevent cholesterol buildup in blood vessels. According to Oregon State University’s Linus Pauling Institute, pumpkins can help prevent or alleviate certain conditions, such as depression, kidney stones, cataracts, skin damage from the sun, and enlargement of the prostate gland. The best pumpkins for cooking and baking are the sugar pie, baby bear and cheese.

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